PMC Tips

BoB the overseer

2010-11-05T17:16:00.001Z

BoB the overseer
Originally uploaded by Murano Silver

BoB likes to make sure my workin's are up to standard!
Every so often his paw flicks out until I've tickled his chin enough for me to continue (BoBs quality control "wages" lol)

Beads and Beyond - September Edition

2010-08-17T15:28:00.003+01:00

Here's me with the article I wrote for Beads and Beyond (September Issue). It's on making memory bracelets and includes two layer photo pendants, carving text and fingerprint charms.

September is a silver clay special so there are a total of FIVE fabulous projects :)

Also in this months issue are the details for entering their Jewellery Maker of the Year competition there are 8 categories including Bead Stitching, Chain Maille, Lampwork, Linking, Stringing, Metal Clays and Mixed Media.
Prizes are well worth winning so get your thinking caps on as the entry deadline is the 16th September.

Nicola xx

Mixing Up Hadars Bronze, Steel and Copper Clays

2010-07-08T08:05:00.008+01:00

This is how Hadars new steel clay looks out of the container...I thought (as Hadar was good enough to demonstrate mixing) that I'd take some pictures of how it's done. The steel clay is very exciting and I'm very much looking forward to capitalising on it's magnetic properties!
Safety Instructions:
You are working with powdered metal - I personally use a dust mask AND barrier cream such as gloves in a bottle. (You normally only get one set of lungs and metal sensitivity rashes suck!)

Mixing Instructions:
1) SHAKE the container well ~ this re-disperses the binder & metal particles
2) Pour into a mixing container (this ones a little large the smaller ones are easier)

3) Using pure water (the de-ionised stuff that you put into car batteries and fancy irons)

Spray the powder and start stirring.4) The mixture will begin to clump (looks like crumble topping at this stage, especially the Bronze....YUM)
5) Go easier with the water once you get to this stage ~ it's not long after that it really starts binding together.
6) Once it's reached the above stage then you can smoosh it all together put it between two plastic folder sheets and start rolling it out. (you can add a little more water to the sheet and fold/roll it in to make the clay extra pliable)

For firing instructions see Hadar Jacobsons Art In Silver Blog, she also has a video on mixing the clay & lots of gorgeous eye candy. :)

Nic xx

Anubis - Masters Registry

2010-07-07T08:24:00.006+01:00

Whilst there's still more work to do, I couldn't resist giving you a peek at how my Anubis figure is progressing.... a far cry from his early days ;)

Or even earlier.....
I 've put more pictures in my "Works in Progress" album on my Flickr photo stream.
Third fill and fire to go then I can start working on the base! need to be careful with the height now, at 11.8cms tall Anubis (+base) still need to fit in my kiln!
He currently weighs in a 151 grammes :)
Nic x

Hadar Jacobson Class

2010-07-03T08:29:00.009+01:00

Hadar Jacobson teaches fabulous workshops and you'll learn LOADS about mixed metal clays.

Silver Clay has always been my preference as the warm metals don't suit my skin tone but after a class with Hadar my love of Bronze, Copper and Steel (yes you heard right ~ STEEL!) has been unleashed too :)

Our first project was to inlay bronze and copper together as these two metals scinter well together. The orange red colour below is the copper the brown is the bronze. We were shown how to make deep indentations in the background clay, dry it, then overfill with the contrasting clay.
Then you sand back to the layer that shows the two contrasting patterns. You'll find Hadars firing shedules on her Art in Silver site.

Below is a picture of Hadars Steel clay in it's powder form. I thought it was going to be a real pain to mix but it was actually very easy and the benefit is that it removes the problems of shelf life and waste clay. It does require a good shaking to make sure the powders haven't settled and evenly distribute them.

After mixing it produces the smoothest loveliest clay that is really flexible and a pleasure to work with (this is the same for all of Hadars clays).

I can see great potential in the steel as you can attach things with magnets....so magnetic clasps and swappable elements will definitely be explored further!
There's so much more to say about Hadars class (I got so much out of it) so I'll post again soon with some more things that you might like to try :)
Nicola xx

Soldering Silver Clay onto a Sterling Cufflink Finding

2010-05-24T10:55:00.001+01:00

Soldering Silver Clay onto a Sterling Cufflink Finding
Originally uploaded by muranosilver

This version shows the solder flowed on the base, then the cuff-link finding brought in ~ you'll find an alternative version on my Flickr stream showing the solder being put onto the finding and then brought onto the preheated PMC base.
(Use whichever works best for you)
Written Instructions for prep etc on on this blog post
http://pmctips.blogspot.com/2009/08/soldering-pmc-or-art-clay-silver-cuff.html
Happy making
Nic xx
p.s. The creaking noise was my chair, lol

Making a Silver Clay Finger Print Charm

2010-05-21T09:14:00.001+01:00

Making a Silver Clay Finger Print Charm
Originally uploaded by muranosilver

Mini-vid tutorial on making a fingerprint charm.
Here are the Key points:
1) Make sure you have everything to cutters/rollers etc ready before your start.
2) Use thicker slats to allow enough clay for the finger to push into.
3) If the print doesn't look clean then roll it up, re-condition the clay and start again :)
4) Leave enough edge to drill a hole for the jump ring to go through.
5) Dry it thoroughly (a warm room overnight is good)
6) Sand & clean the edges (or use a baby wipe to clean up the edge if it's neat enough already)
7) For maximum strength kiln fire but if you haven't got one of those torch or hob fire in a VERY well ventilated area.
(Instructions for this are on this blog)

Happy Making
Nic xx

Texturing Silver Metal Clay

2010-05-19T08:58:00.001+01:00

Texturing Silver Clay
Originally uploaded by muranosilver

3rd in the series Silver Clay - the very, very basics...
How to take a good impression using a texture mat + using a cutter
Nic xx
P.S> Feel free to suggest other topics for my 60-90 second video minis :)

Rolling Out Silver Clay

2010-05-18T13:06:00.001+01:00

Rolling Out Silver Clay
Originally uploaded by muranosilver

2nd in the series of "Silver Clay the Very Basics" this one shows you how easy it is to roll conditioned silver clay. Sorry for any clumsiness (had to use one hand so I didn't get in the way of the camera)
Nic xx

Art Clay Silver Conditioning

2010-05-17T17:00:00.001+01:00

Art Clay Silver Conditioning
Originally uploaded by muranosilver

As so many people get the packet and then aren't sure what the "silver clay" should look like here's a short video of what it looks like fresh out of the packet AND how to add moisture to the clay.

If you need to re-hydrate the clay then once it's wrapped in cling film put it back in it's zip lock packet with some moistened kitchen towel. (After taking the paperwork out, lol)
Hope it's useful
Nic xx

Guild of Enamellers - Conference Classes

2010-05-17T10:24:00.012+01:00

Above is the Art Clay & Enamel pendant I made after taking Mr Ueedas class at the Guild of Enamellers conference. If you're interested in enamelling it's worth joining the Guild of Enamellers and learning from the immensely talented fellow members. I went to this years conference and would've loved to have done ALL of the many classes on offer.
Membership benefits include:
A quarterly journal of information, tips and techniques for both the beginner and experienced enameller plus sources of materials and equipment.
Access to the Guild’s library of books and VIDEO/DVDs. (UK only)
Opportunity to attend regional workshops (fantastic ones!)
Opportunity to attend the Guild's Annual Conference, a weekend of workshops, talks and apply to have your work assessed for an award....
All of this costs the princely sum of just £20.00 amazing!

This years conference classes included:
Jane Short ~ Basse taille brooch in a day
Dorothy Cockrell ~ Cloisonne Mr Ueedas ~ Enamel on Art Clay Silver Jill Leventon ~ Fold Forming & Press Forming Lesley Miller ~ Stencils for Enamelling Janet Notman ~ Torch Firing Copper BeadsMany people were trying these things for the first time so the results are fantastic! I'm putting together some pictures on the Art Clay embellishment and enamel class I took with Toshihide Ueeda ~ it was truly a wonderful experience and he and Daisukeb Minagawa (his interpreter) made it a very pleasant learning experience.
Can't wait until the next conference!

Nic xx

Blog Giveaway - Winner & Next Giveaway

2010-05-01T18:21:00.002+01:00

Congratulations to One Creative Queen on winning the giveaway!! Please contact me with your address and colour choice so I can send you your prize :)
More great news ~ My Murano Silver blog has reached it's 100th post so we'll be doing a giveaway there soon (eyes peeled)
Nic xx

Book Review - Sculptural Metal Clay Jewelry

2010-05-01T13:21:00.009+01:00

I've had Kate McKinnons "Structural Metal Clay" book for a while now (it's superb) so I was very excited to see the arrival of "Sculptural Metal Clay Jewelry".

Kate is a "jewellery engineer" ~ her designs are not only visually appealing, but also constructed for maximum strength and wearability. This book expands on her previous one and also includes a DVD so represents excellent value.

Inside the book you'll find a wealth of information broken into three main areas..
Basics: Tools, Basic Techniques, Firing, Finishing & Safety (The safety aspect is particularly excellent and well covered!)
Elements: This includes 19 techniques for making simple components in metal clay and fine silver wire. Even experienced metalsmiths will benefit but new users will find the info really helps in achieving professional results
Projects: 10 Detailed Sep by Step projects such as: Knobby Chains, Rivet Post Rings, Amphora Pendant and Bird on a Branch Necklace.

Favourite Parts: Chain making, easy size shanks and box building sections.
Negatives? If you have Kates first book, Structural Metal Clay there is some crossover but as this one is currently £12.99 on Amazon (a saving of £7.00) it still worth buying for the improved layout and fantastic pictures.

Summary:
This book is great for metal clay artisans of all levels. Refreshingly Kate treats metal clay not just as a stand alone product but as one of the many tools and techniques that a metalsmith can employ in their design arsenal.
Kates approach is to be applauded and (if more widely adopted) would certainly help metal clays acceptance in the traditional metal smithing community.

Available at: Amazon and Metal Clay Specialists. Also available with a "Bonus Pack" direct from Kate McKinnons Website
Nicola xx
Photos used courtesy of Interweave Press & Kate McKinnon

Etsy Metal Clay - Charm Swap Blog Giveaway

2010-04-23T15:26:00.006+01:00

Etsy Metal Clay is a fantastic group of talented, supportive metal clay artists and I'm proud to be part of the team...Above is a selection of charms made for our annual charm swap.

Above is one of the two charity bracelets (created from last years charm swap charms) . I can't wait to see what everyone's made this year!

BLOG GIVEAWAY ~ As a bonus to my wonderful blog followers:

Leave a comment and you can win a charm swap charm ~ I haven't added colour yet so you can choose: Pink, Green or Blue PLUS you'll also get sent an exciting mystery surprise bundle :)

For Extra Entries:

1) Become a Follower (or mention you if are already one)

2) Twitter the giveaway (leave a link)

3) Blog the giveaway (leave a link)

(I'll draw it at the end of April)

You can see more of what we're up to by visiting these links:

EMC Team Artists
Etsy Metal Clay Blog

Nicola xx

Kiln Disaster & Melted a Days Work :(

2010-04-12T19:55:00.010+01:00

I bought this Prometheus Pro 1 kiln at the Enamellers Guild Conference. I was quite excited about it (I'd been looking for a more transportable kiln and without vat this was a bargain!)
Above you can see the picture of it's first firing ~ with an empty chamber, just in case!. As some of you know I normally fire at 950 degrees, for 1 to 2 hours. This has worked fine in my Paragon SC2 ever since I got it (a number of years ago).....A jeweller friend of mine was round (we were doing some tube setting together) but as it was a brand new kiln I still checked the piece after about 20 minutes. At this point, looking through the little view hole, it was fine & pristine..... Another 20 minutes later and the piece was the puddle of molten fine silver you can see above.

We left the door open as the metal was literally hissing and bubbling...This picture was taken after the shock & "Oh my Gods" had died down and after I went and got my camera (and it's STILL molten).

Once it had cooled you can see why we were so worried - the metal had been melting it's way through the tile!!!

The supplier said that I should only fire at 800 and he wasn't suprised it melted. When I pointed out fine silvers melting point was higher than 950, the return answer was that was didn't matter as the instructions say to fire Art Clay at 800........but,

needless to say I'll now be firing at 899oC in my "big boy" and a little less in the Prometheus
Nic xx

P.S> If anyone knows how to get a lump of tile off a very melted 4 1/2 hours work please let me know....(and if you like the "Break The Rules" art then visit http://www.fredbabb.com/)

Beads and Beyond Feature

2010-03-25T10:55:00.006Z

This month Beads and Beyond magazine have covered my work in a two page "Meet and Greet" feature. It's such an honour to be featured in a major magazine article and I'm so pleased with how the photos and work turned out.
My shop has benefited as has my website and it's a wonderful thing to be able to show the family. My mum and hubby have always supported my work, but there were a few folks who thought I was mad to give up a well paid software job & pursue my creative dream.....
Artisan friends of mine assure me I'm not alone in seeing how much more there is to learn (or guilty of forgetting how far I've already travelled).

For those of you on the same journey as myself....a few quotes I've found inspiring.
"Use what talent you possess ~ the woods would be very silent if no birds sang except those that sang best."
Henry Van Dyke
"The purpose of Art is washing the dust of daily life off our souls"
Pablo Picasso

Enjoy your journey...
Nic xx

First Experience of Delft Casting....

2010-03-08T20:43:00.004Z

Wouldn't this be a great way of replicating PMC masterpieces??
First of all, get the set with the DVD and then watch it! If you haven't got the DVD then there's a very good set of YouTube vids by Andrew Berry...

Here's what I did to make the first of two ball ends for a bangle
1) Clear your work surface, get the clay out and chop it up (I used a metal edge ruler and it was easy)
2) Make sure the clay is soft and mouldable
3) Using the smaller of the two rings turn it upside down (so the joining part is on the bottom)
4) Force the clay into the mould packing it tightly then hammer down the excess on the top.
5) Scrape off the excess to give yourself a flat surface (metal edge ruler again)
6) Turn over and push your master 1/2 way in (in this case my round plastic bead).
7) Use the edge of the ruler to make sure the clay meets the edge of the master.
8) Talcum Powder the master then brush off excess with a soft brush 9) Join up the rings making sure the alignment score marries up
10) Fill the top half with clay & Repeat the tamping down process
11) Gently wiggle the two halves apart
12) Carefully remove the master. 13) Poke a hole from the cavity (where the master was) through to the back I used a small drill bit
14) Following the instructions on the vids carve a funnel that ends in the hole you poked in the cavity (this is what you pour the metal down so it needs to have plenty of room).
15) Clear Debris & tamp down any loose clay
16) Because my bead was round I then did angled holes from the edge to let the air escape.You can see this best on the delft video.
17) Join up the two rings aligning the marks again
18) Using your pre-prepared crucible, heat up the metal until it's a moving liquid.
19) Keeping the flame on the metal pour the metal into the moulds spout. (There will be Flames!)20) You can quench the casting in water (rings and all) as the Delft clay doesn't absorb water. NEAT!
21) Once cool gently ease the two halves apart to inspect your handywork.(please ignore the outside holes ~ in the end I did 4 diagonal ones) This part was quite exciting!!

22) Carefully remove the casting and discard any blackened clay (the rest can be reused).

I love my little Sputnik - Here's a closer look
23) Start the finishing process.....You may want to leave the sprue on if it's a fiddly job (you can saw it off last)Here's the casting looking a bit more like the Ball end of the bangle it will be soldered onto! Hope you enjoyed sharing my first experiences....it wasn't half as scary as I thought it would be....
Why not have a go yourself? Though I hasten to add at your own risk, yadda yadda don't set yourself on fire (did I mention there are youtube vids?)

Nic xx

Making a 2 part - riveted pendant.

2010-02-22T21:32:00.005Z

Here's my finished Tin & PMC Mixed Media Pendant & below is how I made it.
Making a 2 layer Pendant
1) First find a lovely tin you like and work roughly how big you need the centre cut out to be.
2) Roll out clay 1mm to 1.5mm thick and cut out back shape
3) Repeat for the top using the same cutter (adding texture if required)
4) Cut out an inner shape using a needle pick or slightly smaller cutter.
5) Let all the pieces dry.
6) Once dry refine the INNER edges of your front piece.
7) Line up the front and back then sand the edges for a perfect fit.
8) Drill pilot holes in the front only to make it easier to drill once fired.
9) Either add a silver clay bail at this point OR allow space to solder one on later.
10) FIRE the clay and allow to cool.

11)Using the fired pieces as a template, cut out the tin that will be sandwiched between the rivets.
12)Check for alignment and trim as needed.
13) Ball up the ends of three pieces of 1mm sterling silver wire
14) Line up layers & using a 1mm drill bit drill through all three layers (one hole only)
15) Put the wire through the hole and turn pendant over cut wire just under 1mm away from the back of the pendant.
16) Remove wire use file to take point from cut end (one or two strokes of the file at most)
17) Re-insert wire place pendant face down then hit the cut end in a circular motion ~ you're aiming to make a mini mushroom shape.
18) Turn pendant back to front side and if required flatten the end of the ball.
(this also tends to flatten the mushroom on the back even more)

19) Repeat one by one for the other two (or more) holes ~ drilling each in turn until the pendant is fully riveted.
20) Polish and enjoy!

Nicola x

I'm going to America!

2010-02-05T00:14:00.004Z

I'm so excited & just had to share ~ I've booked to attend the bi-annual PMC Guild Conference at Purdue University, Indianna USA. It's so exciting to be part of this conference and meet PMC artists from all over the world. Days and days of learning and sharing ideas about metal clay!
You'll find the conference brochure HERE.

But here are just some of the things I'll be seeing...

Incorporating Dichroic Glass into Metal Clay ~ Sherrie Styx
Bronze and PMC with Other Materials ~ Carmen-Alvarez Keefer
Bronze, Copper, and Silver ~ Weers and Hamilton
Textures & Handmade Stencils in BronzClay ~ Janet Harriman
Enamel Illusions (faux enamel) ~ Cindy Silas
Technical Textures ~ Louise Shadonix
Repousse using Photoshop ~ Marian Ward
Water Etching on Hollow Forms ~ Cathy Davies-Paetz
Failsafe Endcaps for Metal Clay ~ RobinBeth Faulkner
Textures and Etching ~ Sherri Haab
How Do I Finish? ~ Elizabeth Agte
Enameling on Copper Clay ~ Yolanda Nieuwboer
Glass Clay ~ Barry Kaiser

Only 6 months to go! Now I just have to book flights and a hotel and maybe a pre-conference course and make some charms for the charm swap (those 6 months are gonna fly by!)
nic xx

Count your Blesties!

2010-01-10T13:39:00.004Z

I was commenting on a beautiful necklace on Joy Funnells blog when this came up in word verification...
Isn't it great when sometimes life has it's own rewards.....
Give a Little, Get a Little
& remember to notice when life sends you its little Blesties ;^)
Nic x

Art Clay Copper - Firing & Polishing

2010-01-02T00:10:00.006Z

Copper pieces all laid out ready for firing. The kiln needs to get to 970 degrees C. I used my enamelling fork to lift the pieces into the hot kiln. The temperature is held for 30 mins & you take them out HOT!
The pieces are dropped hot from the kiln into cold water. This was difficult as many of them were trying to stick to the fibre shelf. (Prying red hot bits of copper off a fibre shelf is not fun!)

Once pickled (which has left my pickle pot in a right mess) the pieces were tumbled in shot for 45mins. Very easy to see the copper in the steel shot (a pleasant change from trying to spot bits of silver).Dried & separated from the shot you can see a few bits of scale which I plan to take off with a burr. The scale seems to stick to straight pieces more than any other shape. The strips were very bendy, dead soft copper (the ones I rolled 4 cards and 6 cards thick).
I plan to hammer these to work harden them.

Some of the Finished pieces - Five Art Clay Rings (hmmm maybe I should make some calling birds next!). I've done a little smashing on my ring mandrel but plan to do some more ~ these definitely have possibilities...maybe the centre of some spinner rings?
The sizes they ended up were:

9 ended up an 8 (size P)
10- ended up a little over 9 (R1/4)
10 ended up 8 3/4 (almost R)
11 ended up 9 3/4 (approx S 1/2)
12 ended up 10 1/2 (little over U)
The 12 was done with the Red, 6 card, Rio slats and I prefer the result so would suggest using 6 card minimum.

Hope that helps & the end result is Art Clay Copper is well worth giving a try!

Nic xx

Art Clay Copper - Cutting, Ring Making & Finishing

2010-01-01T21:02:00.000Z

Art Clay Copper cuts beautifully and doesn't stick to cutters. It's less sticky than the previous Bronze & Copper clays which combined with the easy texturing and quick firing makes it an ideal prospect for classes.For this testing process I've made five rings on sized mandrels. 12,11,10,10-,9
The clay stuck together well with an angled cut and water join but to be extra sure I gave it a smoosh (technical term there, lol) with the texture plate. This applied extra pressure to seal the join and helped disguise where it was.Hopefully if ACC becomes popular Aida will bring out an Art Clay Copper Syringe type.
When measured after drying the rings are about 1/2 size bigger (I use paper wraps) measuring
12.25,11.5,10.5,11,9.5
I shall measure them again after firing.
These are all the pieces made from a 50g pack. The pieces used a mix of the blue slats from Rio, 4 cards thick and the red, 6 cards thick slats. The heart in the top left is thicker to see if it has much effect on the scintering process.
Once dry I sanded and baby wiped the edges of the pieces. Art Clay Copper sands relatively easily & I found it less "dusty" in comparison to bronze clay. I made sure I wore a mask though as breathing in metal isn't clever!
Nicx

Art Clay Copper - First Experiences!

2010-01-01T14:30:00.010Z

Set everything up...
1) Tools texture mats, board etc all clean, no silver clay to contaminate the copper clay
2) Cling Film and zip lock bag ready (to store clay while I'm using the bit I need)
3) Water to moisten and Baby Wipes
(Turns out you use LOTS of baby wipes as the stuffs messy)
4) Gloves in a bottle or barrier cream. (Just in case as you might be sensitive to copper and it likes to really coat your hands)
First Impressions
It's Orange!! A real orangutan, cuddles the monkey orange! (The picture above doesn't show quite how orange it is, but for someone who prefers the silver metals it's a bit of a shock!)
Straight out of the packet it splits at the edge when squished. I decided this meant it needed conditioning. So I flattened it, smeared a little water on and worked it in (much better).
Be careful when adding water as it goes into the sticky smooshy stage very quickly.
Using the Clay Once Conditioned
Art Clay Copper is fabulous to roll and (once conditioned) not at all sticky. It also doesn't seem to dry as fast as silver clay does. I had plenty of time to roll the clay out with not a cracking edge in sight. It also takes texture very well. I used cool slip on the texture mat and wiped off any excess prior to impressing the texture (the Orange on this pic is closer to true colour - did I mention how Orange it is yet? lol).
I moistened and worked any clay I wasn't using, wrapped it in cling film and put it in the zip lock bag.
Nic x
P.S> More to follow ~ cutting, making rings and firing ACC pics soon ;)

Soldering on Enamel & Silver Jewellery

2009-12-27T16:28:00.008Z

Here's the front of a brooch I made & enamelled for my mum's Christmas present. All I have to do next is make and attach the brooch finding for her. Thankfully I attended a course at MidCornwall Jewellery school where under the superb tuition of Linda Darty, Lisa Cain demo'd exactly how to do it! (well we learnt on earring studs but the techniques the same).

The main secret to successful soldering of components onto enamel is to use a high melting point solder e.g. Hard Solder. This is because you need the enamel to flow on the opposite side (which avoids heat stressing the enamel and cracking it). Think of it like torch firing the enamel, with the added benefit of soldering something to the back.

N.B. It's important that you don't get direct flame onto the enamel areas at it will blacken the glass and ruin your piece!!!
1) Prep the area to be soldered by burnishing and cleaning.
2) Clean Solder and cut pallions ready (use more than usual as metal clay is porous so tends to soak it up)
3) Use borax or other flux on area to be soldered and solder (I used Auflux)

4) HEAT up the silver until the solder flows make sure everything is heated evenly and the metal is all red.

5) Move your findings quickly into position, remove the flame, continuing to hold them in position until the metal cools and the solder is hard (a second or so). 6) Let the silver cool down naturally & if using leaded enamels don't pickle or keep a very close eye on it.
7) If making a brooch then form the pins etc. You can find instructions for making your own brooch findings on my Murano Silver Blog.

Above is a picture of the brooch before it's final clean up - I used rubber wheels and polishing buffs as I didn't want to pickle the enamel. For those that haven't the pleasure of a class with Linda Darty ~ if you can GO on one (she really is amazing) at the very least buy her book
"The Art of Enamelling"
Nicxx
P.S. mum loved it ;-)

And the Winner is....Joy Funnell

2009-12-02T18:59:00.002Z

This is a picture of hubby picking out the winning ticket in my "Robert Dancik - Amulets and Talismans" book giveaway. He even did the paper opening (he said it made him feel like the draw master on the lottery).
Congratulations Joy Funnell you're the lucky winner - email me your address & enjoy your early Christmas gift!
Nic xx

Amulets and Talismans - Dancik Signed Book Giveaway

2009-11-22T21:00:00.010Z

Great artists are often great story tellers and the idea of adding a story to your everyday adornment soon had me ordering an Advance copy of the Amulets and Talismans book from Amazon. I was so pleased with the book that when I next bumped into Robert (at a recent course at Mid Cornwall Jewellery School) I got an extra copy just for you to have a chance of winning :)

Robert Dancik shows how you can make your jewellery more meaningful and more personal. He says "it is the idea that steers the work, not the fascination with a material or showing off a technique." Handily Dancik adds a comprehensive section showing you how to use the tools needed for the projects. He writes in excellent easy to understand detail. (You can tell this guy has years of experience and is a great teacher, below is Robert in full flow at a recent symposium)

Getting the book isn't quite as good as face to face demo, but it's not a great start!
As you can see from this picture of one of Roberts Faux Bone and PMC pieces, it's a wonderfully versatile material. Alternatively you could substitute polymer clay but my suggestion is to try the Faux Bone (Robert also created a using Faux Bone DVD which add extra techniques to this book)
"Amulets and Talismans" Projects
The books 20 projects include:
Karma Bracelet (Charm bracelet)
Minkisi (Beaded tea infuser necklace)
Abracadabracus (Beaded abacus necklace)
Prayer Holder Bracelet (Pvc pipe inro bracelet)
Bound Heart Pendant (Wire-wrapped Faux Bone pendant)
Rune Necklace (Inlaid polymer clay beads carved with symbols)
Protection for the Traveller (Copper sheet pendant with Faux Bone accents)
Laibon Ax Pendant (Wire and Faux Bone necklace)
The Protective Eye (Polymer clay transfer on sheet metal background)
Story Bracelet (Faux Bone charm bracelet)
Medal for Unknown Good Deed (Tin can medal on Faux Bone background)
Finding your Way (Compass and wire necklace)
Split Rock Power Object (Paper pulp mache and resin pendant)
U + Eye (Bottle cap and resin pendant)
Power is Safe in the Void (Jar lid and concrete pendant)
Magnifying Your Path (Jar lid, polymer clay and magnifying glass pendant)
Never Far (Copper sheet pendant)
Closure for a Memory (Mica, sheet metal, and photo pendant)
Looking Back Bead (Plexiglas with Faux Bone topper)
Seeing Through (Pendant with a copper sheet box and concrete)

You can guarantee that you'll be inspired enough to try your own projects too. So get collecting those ticket stubs, bottle caps and beach treasure......and enter to win your own copy!

Here's how you win a signed copy of the book!
Leave a comment below - one entry
Blog or Twitter about the prize - one entry for each :)
Be a fan of the blog or facebook - one entry
You need to make a comment for each entry - makes it easier to cut my pieces of paper up and put them in a hat ;)

Good Luck
Nic x

p.s. Entry closes November 30th

Murano Silver in Print!!

2009-10-12T20:29:00.011+01:00

After being named Silver Clay, Jewellery Maker of the Year by Beads and Beyond Magazine. I found I'm going to be included in TWO internationally published Metal Clay Calenders!!!
The first to tell me the good news was Marjorie Oxman who has published the "2010 Metal Clay Jewelry Calendar". Marjorie Oxman has done such a fantastic job creating this beautiful calendar which you can see below. (If you click the arrows you'll see my "Dali inspired" piece on page 11)

Excitingly I've also been included in Holly Guages "The Art and Design of Metal Clay Jewellery" - Hollys calenders have been gracing my wall for the past two years. It's so exciting to see what international artists have been producing and such a honour to be included amongst them!
Click the link to see more of "The Art and Design of Metal Clay Jewelry Calender". The images Holly uses are stunning! Mines the colourful triangular one, entitled "Thoth", which I think will be August :)
Sooooo so happy.
I've got to go and buy plenty of Calenders now, mum and the family have put their orders in already ;)
Nic x

Blistering Metal Clay....

2009-10-03T00:56:00.005+01:00

Here's a question I was asked recently:

"I'm soldering jump rings on to my fired pmc pendants and I'm having real trouble with the surface of the pmc popping and making bubbles as I'm heating the solder. It was fine when I fired the pmc so I can't understand why it's happening now, any one got any ideas?? It takes so long to make each pendant and they're being ruined at the last stage Thanks!"

Thankfully it's now sorted out and here's the solution for you! :)

The problem turned out to be quenching the fired PMC pieces prior to soldering.
Fired metal clay that has been washed, or wet in any way, can keep humidity for a very long time inside its pores. This is especially true of quenching which seems to force the water into the metal.. If that's the case then the fast heat up with a torch is the problem the moisture is trying to force it's way out.
Try going over your silver clay on it's own and heating it with a more gentle heat to drive out moisture then when soldering try and heat the whole area to even the heat distribution before a final quick focus on the jump ring.
Either that or you'd need to use easy paste solder and be very very quick with a fine flame (so the Metal Clay doesn't get heated)
Hope that helps

Nic x

Enamel Testers Lavenders, Purples, Golds and Reds

2009-09-28T08:58:00.005+01:00

Above are my third set of enamel samplers (see the first Opaques HERE and last weeks set below). As mentioned previously these test firings are direct onto well Burnished Silver Clay.
On my screen, the colours are quite true, with the exception of Rich Ruby Red (which you have to tilt to the light to see a deep dark red) but feel free to ask questions or there's a MUCH higher res photo on my Flickr photo stream.
All comments and experience sharing welcome & feel free to link to any colour tests of your own!
Hope this is useful to folks :)
Nic xx

Soyer Jewellery Enamels - Colour Testers

2009-09-23T15:38:00.005+01:00

Above are my second set of enamel samplers (see the first Opaques HERE). I've tried to photograph the colours as accurately as possible but feel free to ask questions or there's a higher res photo on my Flickr photo stream. Not every colour is probably at it's best, they might be changed by different temps or times but I've followed the temperature notes in the catalogues as much as possible. My personal favourite from this group is Soyer Jewellery Enamels 27 Deep Blue, which has made a perfect "Night Sky" for my "Not a Creature was Stirring" brooch.
All comments and experience sharing welcome & feel free to link to any colour tests of your own! :)
Nic xx

Latest Makings and Anubis progress...

2009-09-16T20:09:00.010+01:00

Here are a few finished commissions PLUS some "works in progress".

These were drawn freehand, then the design transferred using photo-polymer plates, onto Fine Silver (PMC). Post firing, I attached sturdy Sterling Cuff link fittings and oxidised for detail.
Below is another commission, this time square cufflinks, stone set and with three initials.

I've also been working on my Masters Registry votive piece, Anubis. He's starting to take shape. Since last time I've added some detail to the head area (lots more still to go though).

The body has been slimmed down, ready to apply the clothing and decorative layers.

I still need to add hands but I'll do those after the other parts are finished (easier to work on and less risk of damage). Anubis might have to wait a while though as the Christmas prep is higher up the list (here's a "Night Before Christmas", which is also progressing nicely).....

Hope you enjoyed seeing my "works in progress", what are you working on at the moment?

Nic xx

Christmas Designs and Enamel Prep.

2009-09-13T23:13:00.005+01:00

I seem to get in a panic about Christmas earlier every year! I aim for an August start… but it can be hard to find the time, especially when I've been lucky enough to receive plenty of commissions. Ah well, better late than never! Here's the prototype of a brooch design I'm working on. It might also end up being a box pendant..

As you can see, there's still plenty of work to do, but the idea is that there will be a back piece, which will have dark blue enamel or resin added. I'm also going to add a star to the back, maybe top RH corner?

Then the text needs tidying up....and plenty of sanding and finishing before seeing what our little mousie will look like fired!

My final thing for today will be to tumble this lot (prep for my enamel experiments) and finish off the cuff links for a customer order. Really pleased with how the JC stands out will look fab when they're oxidised.
Nic x

Making Enamel Samplers

2009-09-02T23:41:00.007+01:00

PMC / Silver Clay is just "perfect" for enamelling, but if you're going to work with enamels, you need to know they change colour when fired! Another issue is many enamel sample pics are taken on copper and fine silver produces different reactions and colours....

Above are over 60 different enamel testers that I got from the helpful folks at Vitrum Signum. I've made it my mission to find a palette of colours I can work with on fine silver. Hopefully by documenting my experiments I'll save you some time and trouble.

To make each sample as equal as possible (and to allow for future identification) I've made 64 sampler leaves (+extras) engraving the make and colour reference on the back of each one. I also added LowF to low temp enamels and HF to Higher Temp ones. Eventually they'll create a very useful, colourful graduated sampler necklace!

Above are my first 15 enamel samplers. I've tried to photograph the colours as accurately as possible and have added some notes. Not every colour is probably at it's best, they might be changed by different temps or times but I've followed the temperature notes in the catalogues as much as possible. My personal favourite from this group is Soyer Jewellery Enamels 606 Moss Green, which although labelled as Opaque is surprisingly transparent.

All comments and experience sharing welcome! :)
Nic xx

Metal Clay Masters Registry - E1 Votive Figure

2009-08-27T21:27:00.009+01:00

After my Thoth inspired project I've turned to Egypt for my Masters Registry votive figure....
The brief: Duplicate a Votive Figure from an Earlier Culture....Using primarily metal clay, make a figure that fits into this tradition.

Prayers to the Jackal headed god are found carved on the most ancient tombs in Egypt, and he has many duties. Annubis watches over the mummification process to ensure that all is done properly. He conducts the souls through the underworld, testing their knowledge of the gods. He places their heart on the Scales of Justice during the Judging of the Heart, and he feeds the souls of wicked people to Ammit (the crocodile demon). At first I was going to create the full Jackal version (as I thought it would be easier) but then I thought, what the heck, it's the masters registry, lets stretch myself a bit (for that read "lots and lots")
So above was my first few days work, design, plan, build a fine silver skeleton and fuse it all together then start the process of modelling the body.

And here's where I am tonight - hopefully you can see the rough shape coming together....There's obviously still loads to do...add more clay to shape and define the body, start carving more defined arms and legs, shape the feet, add hands, add the loincloth, add more to the ears etc etc etc.

I'm quite pleased with my progress so far though, he's even balanced enough to stand up on those two pins...

Nic x

Student Work - August Course

2009-08-23T21:47:00.008+01:00

I had three students today and we were very proactive! They learnt setting with CZ stones, Brooch Fittings and how to make a ring. One had done a "smidge" of PMC work the other two were completely new to it :)I love this pretty flower brooch that Claire did - we added polymer clay to give it a jazzy centre and the earrings were left brush finish (because they looked fabulous!)Sally made a dragonfly brooch with a sapphire CZ highlight and a gorgeous ring (which fitted perfectly!)

Finally these stunning earrings and custom Pandora style charms, made by Adele, finished off this talented trios creations!
Didn't they do well :)
Nic xx

PMC and Enamel Charms for the EMCTeam Swap

2009-08-21T09:01:00.010+01:00

Did you know about the EtsyMetalClayTeam? It a fab bunch of Metal Clay Artists who sell their wares on Etsy, all gathered together for mutual self promotion. Anyway while we were chatting together on our forum we decided to do a charm swap. One bracelet for each of us and one for charity (28 charms in total!)

I'm so happy to say my charms are finally going to be winging their way to America today :)
Here they are straight out of the kiln & freshly enamelled. And here they are polished up & with their Swarovski Crystals added!

Spirals were chosen because I love their organic form and in Celtic belief the spiral symbolised the journey from darkness into light. The little crystals just complemented the colour so well I had to add them too! I can't wait to see what the other folks have made (I've had a sneak peek of a few and they look AWESOME!!
These are Lindas (Clayology) , Dinas (Dina Alexander) , Catherines (Happy Day Art), Ruths (Birdland Creations) and Bevs (Mango Tango Designs)
Enjoy!

Nic x

Soldering PMC or Art Clay Silver Cuff links

2009-08-18T22:27:00.005+01:00

Personally I use the complete cufflink mechanisms from Cooksons (NVU-101 you can find them here)

This is what I do for my fine silver (PMC/ACS) fronts onto the Cooksons cuff link mechanisms.
1) File off the little bump so you have nice flat contact
2) Burnish the area on the PMC that you'll be attaching the cuff link too
3) (If using paste) Blob paste onto the cuff link finding
3b) (If using Pallions) Clean and flux both pieces and the solder pallions
4) Hold cuff link finding onto cuff link with cross-locking tweezers (at an angle where you won't burn yourself while heating the piece)
4b) (If using Pallions) put solder pallions at join point
5) Aim the heat at the block around the fine silver cuff link gradually bringing the heat more onto the cuff link. Don't aim the heat onto the solder itself until the the fine silver is hot. The solder tends to melt when the fine silver is around the Salmon red colour.
6) Remove heat when the solder flows BUT continue to hold the cuff link finding in place as the solder will still be fluid until the metal cools a bit.
7) Pickle & polish as normal

Here's what they look like finished - hope that helps :)

Nic x

PMC Symposium Bristol

2009-08-12T12:10:00.006+01:00

Last weekend was spent very, very happily at the PMC symposium in Bristol.

Guest presenters included Tim McCreight, Jeannette Landenwitch, Robert Dancik and the inventor of Bronze Clay-Bill Struve. It kicked off with a wonderful keynote presentation from Tim (far left in the picture), ahhh so the focus of the weekend was design....

This fitted well as we got so see for real fabulous Masters Registry creations including Maggi Bergmans bracelet and brooch with stilt rivets. Clare John demonstrated resins (she has a great selection of colours ans they look fabulous). Sue Heaser demonstrated Polymer Clay. Helga van Leipsig presented on using ceramic transfers on silver clay (her work is amazing and the effects look very similar to aluminium and silver mixed)

Then there was the Balloon Festival and the Red Arrows fly over. Lisa Cain is good very, very good at organising conferences - but a Red Arrows fly over!!! WOW!! ....(NB apparently Lisa said that it was just co-incidence and all that stuff was going on anyway, but I'm not so sure, lol)

Critique Sessions were available with:

•Tim McCreight •Robert Dancik •Lisa Cain •Jeanette Landenwitch •Chris Pate •Julia Rai
I was booked in with Tim McCreight who was extremely generous with his knowledge!
OMG then there was the eye candy!!!!

I put more here in my Flickr Photos - (just click the conference set)
There was soooo much more the stone setting with Jeanette Landenwitch, the riveting (literally) session with Robert Dancik where we saw some of the things you could do with cold connections and faux bone (I had to get some of that!).
Then there were lots of opportunities to buy stuff and a prize giving too £££ Major value prizes!!

All in all I shall definitely be booking next year and now I am also committed to participating in the Masters Registry. The Masters is a program linked to an independent evaluation system that is the most prestigious and professional credential in the field of metal clay. It's not cheap but you DO get world class designers evaluating your work and build up an impressive portfolio of professional photographs...

Nicola xxx

Handy Tip for adding Resin to Jewellery

2009-07-16T00:11:00.001+01:00

Oasis is available very cheaply from florists and florist supply companies. It is the resin artists friend as it allows you to easily make sure your jewellery is level! Here are my latest selection of resin dome rings, pendants & earrings and this is one of them after drying (a ruby resin pendant & earrings set)

Hope you like them & you found the tip useful!

Nicola x

£100 Blog Giveaway on Murano Silver

2009-07-13T20:03:00.001+01:00

Just to let you know there's a blog giveaway on Murano Silver (my other Blog), we're 8 facebook followers away from the £100 of Murano Silver Jewellery Giveaway!

That would include your choice of three Daisy Themed Pieces...PLUS

a handmade ring with your own choice of wording: PLUS

Either Stud or Dangly Earrings (surprise choice made by me)

and whatever else I throw into the mix :)

To enter:

1 Entry for posting a comment on the Murano Silver Blog thread plus

1 Extra entry if you're a fan - (Also includes this PMC Tips Blog so if you follow both that's 2 extra)

5 Extra entries (yes FIVE) to everyone who follows my shop facebook page (Link below)

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Market-Deeping-United-Kingdom/Murano-Silver-Jewellery/99621907255

2 Extra Entries for Blogging, Twittering & Facebooking about the comp.

(2 entries for each promotion - please post link)

That's a potential 14 entries in my Birthday Bonanza Giveaway!

Nicola xx

Babette Cox Name Stamps Review

2009-07-06T23:50:00.006+01:00

So you've created your jewellery and hopefully people are buying it, but wouldn't it be fabulous if they could easily remember where they'd bought it from a year or two down the line??

Well thanks to the marvelous Babette Cox now you can!.

Babette makes very, very detailed custom name stamps and makers marks that are perfect for adding that professional touch to all your polymer clay and pmc pieces. They're made from a hardened plastic that gives perfectly crisp text impressions.

Here's the back of my butterfly brooch showing my new "Murano Silver" text stamp (one of the two stamps I got from Babette). She was really helpful in matching up the font I use in my website etc to the font I got for my stamp. There was even a proof with multiple true to scale sizes so I could choose the size I wanted!

The back of the flower pendant shows the other stamp I bought. This one has the "Created by Heart and Hand" logo used on my business cards and website. I only had crude graphics for this, but Babette got them tidied up for me and they came out beautifully.

All in all Babette's Makers Mark & Custom Name Stamps provide excellent value for money and superb quality. They come with clear and detailed instructions and tips for usage (both for polymer and silver clay) and I'm sure I'll be using them for many years to come!

Nicola x

Level 2 Certification - Silver Clay

2009-07-02T00:05:00.007+01:00

I've now posted my Level 2, Art Clay Silver Certification pieces..... If you need me, I'll be in a corner gibbering & hoping they're good enough to pass (or I'll have to do them again!).This is the first piece, a shaped rolled rope ring, with inset CZ and carving. I also had to oxidise it but took the picture before that (so you could see the carving depth better). It also had to end up an exact size (did that bit phew!)For the second piece you have to set a natural stone using fine silver bezel strip. The stone is bezel set post firing and a part of the pendant has to be mirror finished. The stone is a very pretty green Tourmaline & you can see the textured silver through it (cute).

This is the back showing the Fine Silver Bail back (or flat screw eye) which has to be used. It also shows the new name stamp I got from the fabulous Babette Cox! The final piece is a brooch, this one requires the use of syringe type clay. It also uses Art Clay Exclusive brooch findings which are always fun to set, lol. I really hope this one passes as I might have been a bit ambitious in adding cabs & SiChrome flakes. (fingers crossed).

Nic xx

See what my PMC class learnt today!

2009-06-29T00:57:00.000+01:00

Today my fabulous "intro course" students learnt how to use silver clay. They learnt setting with CZ stones, Dichroic Glass Cabs, Resin work (they even did some soldering too).

Didn't they do well!

Nic xx

Cool Video of a Metal Clay pendant being made!

2009-06-24T17:40:00.002+01:00

JenKahn has entered this into the Etsy metal Clay Video Comp!

Etsy Handmade Metal Clay Moment

Posted to Etsy Handmade Moment by jenkahn on June 23, 2009

Click to Play View Details

Vote for the Video and Help Promote the Etsy Metal Clay community :)
Nic xx

Babies Footprints Captured Forever....

2009-06-22T23:36:00.002+01:00

This week I've been mainly using my nail lamp! This is the original footprint plus the black out transparency that I used to make the photo-polymer plate with. The finished pendants are then created using the finished photo-polymer texture plate.

I also use my nail lamp with my UV resins. I get them from Petra over at silverclay.co.uk and they're so much more convenient than mixing up big pots of two part resin. No weighing required, a blob of the resin, a drop of colour, a twiddle with a cocktail stick, a visit to the "sun bed" and it's done!

This is every colour resin that Petra does (except yellow - ran out of daisies DOH!). You can vary the intensity by adding less colour to get a more transparent look too. Marvelous!

I just need to take lots and lots of photos now so I can get them in my shop and up on Etsy ;)
Nic xx

Perfect Torch for PMC & Soldering!

2009-06-15T13:59:00.008+01:00

This is the Nimrod PT 500 Pro Torch, it's quite simply the best torch I've found for PMC and small scale jewellery soldering. Teresa Speer (head Honcho at the In the Studio Jewellery School) recommended it & I've been using mine for two years, for a large variety of jewellery tasks, without a single problem....

At approx £38 it certainly isn't the cheapest option, but it IS perhaps one of the best value:
1) It's solid construction, looks like it will last forever

2) It has a 60ml Butane reservoir so less refilling

3) Long Running Times - even when doing lots of work (up to an hour!)

4) Max torch temp 1350º C (2460º F)

It's also eminently adjustable and has done everything from firing PMC to fusing fine silver & melting dichroic glass too!

Top Torch Rating: 4.8 stars!
Ease of Use *****
Versatility *****
Construction *****
Price ****

If you haven't chosen your torch yet this is a great buy!
Nicola x

Silver Clay Etsy Treasury & Inspiration

2009-05-31T13:49:00.004+01:00

I love being in Etsy Treasuries - it's such an honour when someone chooses my work :)
My creation is the Wave Pendant in the bottom right hand corner. The treasury is live until Tuesday June 2nd and you can see some of the other wonderful artisans work by visiting it HERE .

This one has been put together by Destiny's Creations a talented Artisan who specialises in Metal Clay work. Here are her "Love Letter" Earrings, which are stylish, simple and very, very eye catching!

Currently working from Windsor, Connecticut us UK folks will have to buy her lovely creations via her Etsy shop (which you can get to by clicking this Destinys Creations link!

Happy shopping
Nicola x

Fingerprint Cufflinks - perfect for Fathers Day

2009-05-17T22:09:00.006+01:00

These fingerprint cuff links are the perfect gift for the man who has everything....including two gorgeous children and a brilliant wife (who plans ahead!). They're still to be burnished and oxidised but for those of you with a packet of Silver Clay, kids and some soldering skills (for the cuff link back) what are you waiting for??
Nic xx

Creating Bronze Jewellery - Firing Times

2009-05-15T23:02:00.003+01:00

I made whole heap of Bronze jewellery recently and after the last firing (when the bronze wasn't fully sintered) I decided to fire them really, really slowly. It worked!
The bangle, which is the thickest piece, was even formed into shape post firing. It stood up to whacking it with a mallet on a bangle mandrel... Hoorah! Success :)

This is how I prepared it:
1) 1 inch of charcoal firing medium in my steel firing pan
2) Bronze bangle and another piece with 1 inch between them
3) Another inch charcoal
4) Some more bronze pieces
5) Another Layer
6) More pieces
7 ) Top up with charcoal, leaving 2/3 inch gap to lid
8) Put lid on & programme Kiln

My Firing Temps & Times:
I used a UK Paragon SC2 Kiln, with a viewing window. The firing pan was slightly raised off the bottom by putting it on my smallest kiln posts. Be careful not to let it touch the Pyrometer at the back of the kiln. I fired it overnight as this is a very, very long firing schedule.
1) Programme 1 - Ramp speed 80 Centigrade per hour
2) Until it reaches 850 Centigrade
3) Hold for 2 hours
4) Remove when cold & sieve out your pieces!

Hope that helps anyone with their own experiments, there are some more close up pictures on my shop blog :)

Nicola xx

Silver Clay Course - Student Pieces!

2009-05-11T00:17:00.004+01:00

I'm so proud of these fabulous pendants my students made today.

One had tried silver-clay and been disappointed with the results, while the other two had never had a go at all...... So these stunning pieces are their first pendants, their first time soldering, first stone setting, first use of LOS patina and first time using UV resins!! They worked really hard and learnt lots very quickly.

I'm already looking forward to the 28th June, when I'll be introducing a new course which will concentrate on setting glass into silver clay & adding colour.
Nicola xx

Etsy Treasury & a Blog Award :)

2009-05-07T08:49:00.012+01:00

There's loads happening with my Silver Clay work at the moment, including my recent membership of a very talented bunch of Artisans called the "Etsy Metal Clay Team" as a new member I even got a mention on their blog - how welcoming is that *kisses to the EMC'ers

I've been promoting their works in my recent treasuries and a few of the EMC follks have included me in theirs. The most recent is the one above by CleverEndevour. She chose to feature my "Wheel of Life" pendant, a multi layer silver clay creation. Can you see the works of the other talented folks too?

My mum is visiting this weekend and (bless her) she's been scouring her vintage button collections to bring me new patterns to take moulds of. There's a fabulous floral design and even an Egyptian style profile...can't wait to see how they come out! I'll be taking some mould tomorrow so will try to take a few pictures of the process for you & blog it into the techniques section :)

Another wonderful thing that has happened this week is the wonderfully talented Gail Burton has given me this Blog Award.
Gail is best known for her English Bull Terrier paintings on canvas, but she does do other animals and magnificent mixed media work.

I own one of her pieces, a blue cat watching a fish in a pond. It's in the form of a sign which says "My Cat is purrfection" it sits on the wall above where skittles (our cat) likes to sleep.
Gails vibrant art really cheers the soul and she raises tons of money for rescue charities too!

Gail sells her work on various sites though Ebay seems to be favourite. If you follow her blog she'll often give a heads up on what she's about to list :)
Here are two of her latest creations...aren't they fabulous!

Oooh one last thing I have to choose 8 more people who's blogs I deem worthy of this beautiful award (actually, I could choose easily choose more but that's not in the rules)
Here is my list of bloggers who I give this award to:
Daily Be An inspirational blog full of uplifting faith :)
Birdland Creations Very talented Metal Clay Artisan
Lazy Daisy Glass Very Talented Glassworker!
Two Left Hands She makes the cutest little Mossie People & Dolls
Lisas Lovlies Silver Jewellery and ring creator!
Junk Mamas One mans Trash turns to Junkmammas Treasure!
Simple Subtleties - Stacey is an animal carer and Jewellery Artisan :)
Such & Such Lora Hart is a talented Metal Clay Artist and Author
PHEW! That was hard, but each one of these blogs is very different from the other and give me hours of browsing pleasure between them.
Nicola xx

Silver Clay - Level 2 Course

2009-05-05T09:07:00.005+01:00

Hooray!! I've finished the first part of gaining my Level II ACS Certificate. This was a four day class, hours of work, and many, many grams of clay. God Bless Larissa Johnson for teaching me Keum Bo and how to set glass cabochons safely!

The next part of the Level II training is the design & fabrication of another three pieces (to very strict guidelines and specifications).

These have to be completed within 60 days and juried by other certified instructors. I'm told the criteria is very strict so the aim is perfection....As my style is normally organic it'll be an interesting challenge! Lucky for me if one of my pieces doesn't make it through I can re-submit.

Once passed I'll be certified to teach Certification Courses myself, the highest level of training available in Art Clay Silver. Not sure whether I'll offer these courses but my intro courses are sure going to be of even higher quality!

Here's a group shot of all my first pieces - the first pic was my Glass Harmony and the Stick Brooch which are my two favourites.
My father in law has his eye on the tie tack, lol

Nicola xx

Funky Tribal - Ancient Image, Modern Materials

2009-04-28T18:38:00.002+01:00

How to make a funky double layer pendant:
1) Use ACS or PMC clay that's been around a while
& re-used / re-rolled a few times. You'll notice it's not quite as smooth as the "Fresh out of the Packet" stuff you get better results that way ;)
2) Choose two texture plates (you can make them yourself or use commercial ones)
3) Spray one of them with coolslip (or oil it so it doesn't stick)
4) Roll out clay and press onto texture sheet
5) Here's the cool bit, RIP the edges leaving it irregular.
6) Let that shape dry flat & don't try to neaten it!
7) Repeat the process making top piece using the second texture. This time wet the edge of your finger & smooth the edge slightly
8) While the top piece is still fresh & shapeable, moisten the pieces and add a little slip to help join them together.
9) Let dry completely then either make a roll over bail for the back ,or drill a hole to attach a jump ring.
10) Smooth any rough areas on the edge (just enough so they're not scratchy). Sponge backed sanding pads are great for this.
11) Fire & finish your pendant as normal (these look great oxidised)

Here's my finished pendant beaded with sterling tribal beads and labradorite 3mm rounds.

Hope you like it!

Nic xx

Bronze Clay - The pleasure & the pain!

2009-04-24T23:06:00.007+01:00

Recently one of my regular customers came in and asked whether I had anything in Bronze (it was their Bronze Anniversary). Well the brainwave hit that I had three packets of Bronze clay that had been sitting in my Fridge since I got them From Rio Grande 3 months ago!

Did the fact that I'd never even used bronze clay deter me?
Nope, I figured how much more different to silver clay could it be??? Besides I've already cast in Bronze, so I thought maybe I could melt the stuff....
*Regular users of the clay are probably rolling on the floor now tears of laughter and pity streaming down their face.

It is not at all like working with art clay silver at all. The texture is stickier which makes it harder to move pieces around before they’ve dried more, at which point it starts cracking. It reminds me most of the very early Silver Clays which were harder to work with than todays formulas. It imprints well though :)

My customer decided on Silver Cufflinks with a Bronze Heart on. So washed off all my silver clay tools and cutters in soapy water (so they didn't contaminate the bronze clay). I did various bits and pieces before saving 1/2 a pack for later the packs are HUGE particularly after working with silver clay. I made various sized hearts and also added a little bronze bunny and a ring.

I left them to dry 24 hours and then fired them overnight

Once fired I brass brushed them in soapy water, the hearts were fine but when I got to the ring it broke. You can see the inside in the picture, the dark area is unscintered clay. I didn't even brush the rabbit (it's thicker so if the ring broke I figure the bunny will need another toasting!)

After a quickfire programme and a good file down I was happy that the hearts were good and solid.

Here's the finished result after soldering to the pre-prepared ACS cufflink base and adding Sterling fittings.
Once I oxidised the background the bronze really stood out.
My client picked them up today, she loved them so I hope her hubby does too! I think I'll make some more in various bronze/silver designs. The Hearts would look good engraved with initials too....

Nic xx

Blog Candy - FREE Jewellery or Silver Clay

2009-04-24T00:13:00.002+01:00

Just to let you know in honour of St Georges Day I'm giving away some prizes on my
Murano Silver Blog and one of them is two packs of Art Clay Silver (ACS) or you can bag some Jewellery, whichever you prefer. The Entry Post is HERE
You can choose from any of these fabulous prizes.... 1) A Textured Heart Pendant with Your Choice of Stone Colour2) A Sterling Silver Ring Made to your Size with Either "Until the Seas Run Dry" or your own name stamped upon it.
3) TWO 10g Packs of Art Clay Silver for you to make your own Silver Jewellery and a few little extras to help ;)

So come on get entering - It's FREE & there will probably be a few extra gifts thrown in for good measure! ;)

Nic xx

Earth Day, Recycled Silver & Altered Art Jewellery

2009-04-22T07:07:00.011+01:00

Today is Earth Day. Now what does it mean to us? Well, it is just a reminder to us that we need to appreciate our Earth, the place we live in. What's the best way to show appreciation of our planet? There are many ways to do it but I guess using recycled materials has got to be a good idea. Thankfully for Silver Clay Artisans that's easy :)

Art Clay & Precious Metal Clay (PMC) are recycled products which reclaim a variety of different metals. The silver for Art Clay comes from sources such as film stock and negatives so you could be wearing a little piece of Marilyn Monroe's big screen debut!
ACS is 100% recycled, and PMC has a high percentage of recycled material too. Even the organic binder that burns away has very little impact on the environmnet, which is great news because "green" and "recycled" are not only beneficial to the planet but they're also Hot Selling benefits too!

It can't have escaped your attention that "altered art" and "found item" jewellery is very popular on selling sites such as Etsy and Artfire, it's also fun to make and low cost in terms of components.

When you re-use, re-purpose and generally recycle old buttons, fabric scraps, twigs and ephemera the results can be stunning PLUS you are definitely living a more sustainable lifestyle.
Here are a few of my favourite pieces by other mixed media artists....Opie and Linda O'Brian are mixed-media artists, authors and teachers, who enjoy pushing the envelope in myriad ways, using organic, recycled and found materials because they seem to have a voice that must be heard, a story that must be told, and a life that would otherwise be too soon forgotten. They consider themselves "caretakers of the mundane and the ordinary" and their unique offerings include jewelry, dada dolls & recyclabots, assemblage, books, collage, masks, music and more!
Jenny Crossley is another mixed media artist (from Australia) she works with paper, metal and other ephemera I just adore the way she uses old photos in her work. I wonder who those folks were....
Would you like to give mixed media work a try? Then here are a few books that might help :)

"Semiprecious Salvage" by Stephanie Lee
"Making Connections" by Susan Lenart Kazmer

& "Altered Art Circus" Lisa Kettell

Happy Making!
Nic xx

Making Layered Pendants for Resin / Enamel

2009-04-07T16:12:00.009+01:00

Would you like to add colour to your pieces? There are lots of ways to do this, resin, patina solutions, enamel, polymer clay, coloured pencils, transfers...the list is endless.
In the case of resin & enamel you ideally need to design indents for the resin or enamel to go.

Options for this include indenting the clay with stamps or using cutters to make a two layer pendant.

Here is the first stage in one of my two layer "starry night" cat pendants...

1) First I cut a detailed top piece (the window & cat shape).

This can be as simple or as complex as you like ~ multiple circle cut outs are easy to do, yet look very effective

2) Carefully use water & a smear of paste to join onto rolled out clay.

3) Trim to fit & leave to dry.
If the pendant is to be enameled then take extra care to make the top layers vertical as undercuts can cause cracks in the enamel.

Next you need a hanging point so (avoiding the indented resin area) drill a hole for a jump ring or make a roll over/fold over bail.

This pendant is using a roll over bail which is formed on a straw.
1) Using your chosen texture plate roll out clay to 2/3 cards thick.
2) Use a cutter to create a straight edge.
3) Roll clay over a straw until it touches the other side
4) Cut another straight edge at the "touching point"

5) Use a little water moisten & join the edges.

6) Let dry to leather hard & ease straw out
8) Finish drying then fill in any gaps with syringe clay.

9) Tidy up edges, sand & smooth

10) Moisten pendant & bail, then join using paste or syringe.

11) Let dry then reinforce front & back with a thin syringe line.

Fire in a kiln: at approx 850 degrees for 2 hours to make the pendant as dense as possible.
If using a round bail fire in a fibre blanket or vermicellite (so pendant doesn't end up curved)

If torch firing: I suggest using a flat bail (or a hole with jumprings) to help get get full scintering

Note: Both PMC and Art Clay Silver are porous so to get the best results the areas to receive enamel/resin should be compressed by burnishing, engraving or tumbling with steel shot.

Once fired, finished & polished, follow the directions to add enamel, epoxy resin or UV resin of your choice.

Add the chain and voila, your finished!

Nic xx

P.S> If you intend to sell these pendants then

1) Please don't use my design ;)

2) Don't forget to weigh it & if you're in the UK, get it hallmarked if over 7.78 grammes!

Art Clay Price Increases ~ Due 8th April

2009-04-06T22:03:00.003+01:00

For those of you who use Art Clay Silver here's a "heads up". There is a massive 35% price increase due to be implemented on the 8th April.
You can see confirmation of this on silverclay.co.uk (one of the main UK distributors). The good news is that if you buy clay for them before 8th April they will sell it you at the current price (even if out of stock).

Increases are due to the fluctuation in the dollar rate (which Silver is set in) and price increases from Aida (the manufacturer). It's not that surprising really, they haven't had a big increase in two years but still a bit of a blow if you make a lot in silver clay.

So go and stock up now (I did) :)
Nicolaxx

PMC Course - Students Pieces :)

2009-03-31T15:56:00.007+01:00

The real beauty of Silver Clay is that under tuition even complete beginners can design and make lovely, real silver jewellery in a couple of hours – with no previous experience at all!

These are the pieces that my students made on Sunday (in amongst all the other things they learnt to do!)

Courses are taught in small groups (minimum 2 maximum 4) in my fully equipped workshop. Although the courses are specifically designed to enable absolute beginners to produce fantastic results we tailor each course to the abilities of the participants. (This week my students also learnt soldering, patina techniques and using coloured resins)

I run courses about every six weeks and the £65 course fee includes a kit to take home and enough silver clay to make one large piece or two to three smaller pieces. (You can buy more clay from on the day if you want to make chunkier jewellery).

These pieces are their first ever pieces & I think they look fabulous!
Nic x

Inspired by Dali

2009-03-20T08:54:00.006Z

Persistence of Memory -

"Bits and pieces of fired metal clay had been lying on my workbench ~
The face had been managing to look accusing ~ she needed to be jewellery, so I sawed her in half intending to make earrings.....
A single earring stud waiting for me to make it's mate (I'd lost the other).
The Oval frame was an experiment in pouring liquid clay into a silicone mould & then topping it up...(it worked, though required lots of syringe filler & sanding to make the surface acceptable!)

I'd been reading one of my Dali books, so was in altered head space when I spotted the oval frame and other pieces, I started arranging them into different combos....Dali's muse had struck!

The only problem was it was all fired silver...The textured back & bail helped pull it all together. Lots of Oil paste & multiple firings later & I was quite pleased with the result (until the face fell off in the tumbler - ARRRGH).
I couldn't face opening that stinky smelling oil paste again so I hard soldered the face back onto the pendant! Problem solved ;)
Once it had been soldered I pickled it then used bicarb to un-pickle it then I felt that "just in case" I should cover where the solder had been --- I used multiple layers of Black and Aqua UV resin until I got the greeny black almost patina colour "Persistence of Memory" was born!"

Have you ever read and inspirational journal/book & then re-purposed some of you pieces??
Exciting isn't it!

Making Art Clay Silver & PMC Rings

2009-03-15T15:06:00.006Z

I make a lot of rings but always explain that they are not as strong as sterling silver rings. As a pure metal Fine silver doesn't have the strength of an alloy like sterling silver.
So when designing a ring in PMC or Art clay silver you need to follow a few guidelines....
1) Make the ring thicker to add strength (most times at least 6 cards thick). 2) If you can, re-inforce the join by adding any decorative elements on top of it. 3) Fire it long & hot ideally in a kiln for at least an hour. I fire at 850-900 Centigrade for 2 hours to make extra sure...

I generally test their strength after firing, on a ring mandrel. Whacking them into shape is a great test, lol. Personally I wouldn't recommend hob firing for rings as it just doesn't get hot enough to fully sinter.

Torch firing can work but as the temperature is controlled by eye results can vary.

For those that dont have a Kiln
Maybe you could try these?http://www.metalclayfindings.com/rings.aspx. They're fine silver ring liners that you build your ring on top of - then you could torch fire it...they're an American company but are also available in the UK from their distrubutor Argentice.
Nic x

Making pictures into Jewellery

2009-03-09T15:10:00.006Z

Here's a quick snap of some penguin cufflinks I made & here's how I made them
1) I drew the cute penguin in black indian ink on white paper.
2) I scanned the image into my PC.
3) The Image was scaled to cufflink size then printed onto clear acetate.
4) Using a Photopolymer Plate I made a custom impression stamp. The photopolymer plates were purchased from WholeLotta Whimsey (here's one of their videos on Making Photopolymer Plates)
5) I impressed the plate onto freshly rolled pmc & cut the cufflinks fronts to size.
6) The cufflinks were kiln fired for two hours at 880°C, brushed, tumbled & polished.
7) I flash torched them to remove any oils and give the 22k gold overlay paste something to adhere to.
8) I applied the gold overlay paste & torch fired it. (see how here)
9) Anther quick brush & session in the tumbler
10) I then applied the fineness stamps & soldered a sterling silver back onto the front of the cufflinks. (Here's a ganoskin post on PMC soldering)
11) Finally I hand textured where the patina was going and used a paintbrush to selectively apply Platinol.
12) A swoosh off of the Platinol & a polish later and HOORAH I was done!!

Naturally it doesn't have to be a cufflink, why not try it yourself on a plain pendant (no soldering involved) lol

Nic xx

Making A PMC / Silver Clay Leaf

2009-03-06T15:24:00.006Z

Use your Slip Pot to Create a Unique Leaf Pendant
1) Pop into the garden & pick a fresh leaf (2-3cm, not hairy). It's the back of the leaf that gets painted, so check that has lots of lovely veiny texture.
2) Use a small (cheap) paintbrush to apply a thin layer of paste to the underside of the leaf.
3) Let it dry slowly (e.g. overnight)
4) Apply additional layers of paste and repeat the drying process until you have made up at least 5 layers of paste (2-3mm thick).

5) Make a hanging bail by rolling and cutting out a small rectangle of PMC3.Wrap this rectangle around an oiled wooden skewer or small straw. Partially dry then remove the skewer/straw & let it finish drying. (Alternatively use a purchased fine silver "poke in" loop & attach a jump ring after)
6) Attach bail to the back of the pendant, using a little more paste/slip as "glue".
7) Torch or Kiln Fire the pendant (the leaf will burn away). Don't worry of there's more smoke than usual (it's the leaf burning away)
8) Brush the "white" off with your steel/brass brush.

9) Tumble & Polish as normal

10) Enjoy the compliments your new pendant is getting :)

Nic xx

Repairing Unfired PMC & Art Clay

2009-03-03T21:33:00.005Z

Here's how to solve those Silver Clay "oopsies"
The easiest way to fill a small crack is using a syringe version of the same Art Clay as the one your created the pendant in. (i.e If Art Clay 650, then you'd use art clay 650 syringe).
The fine tip (blue) is perfect for piping the clay straight into the crack.
Another alternative is to use home made slip (created from waste clay when you made the pendant) a toothpick is a good way to apply it.

You should try to do all repairs in the greenware (unfired) state & you need to slightly overfill the crack so that as it dries (& shrinks) it still fills the crack. Once the clay has dried sand to blend the repair in.

If the design has texture, fill it and then very carefully blend in the "fill" while its still moist (you'd use a rubber tipped blending tool for this). If you fill & blend be prepared to do the filling procedure more than once as each time it dries it will shrink into the crack.

Alternatively use your "break up" change the design in a new & creative way!!
Like pretending it was your idea all along and adding some enamel ;)
Nic xx

Tutorial - PMC and Polymer Clay Pendant

2009-03-02T11:34:00.004Z

Challenge yourself using Mixed Mediums!
This pendant was made in four pieces & 2 stages. If you'd like to adapt the idea to your own designs, this is how I made it. :)

Stage One
1) First I made the flat leaf shape at the back, this had three little blobs of clay attached towards the centre of the top section. I carved lines in the edge in the clay stage too
2) I made the Aztec Texture top section, again with some blobs on the back (but in different areas to the bottom)
3) I made & attached the swirly bail to the rear section (a fold over bail or just a hole would also work).
4) All the silver clay pieces were then fired at 850 for 2 hours. (You can fire them how you like)

Next Stage
Remember those blobs of clay? (Top of the back piece and rear of the top piece?). Well they become like little rivets to hold your polymer clay in place
1) Make a thick layer of polymer clay.
2) Cut it to the shape needed to fit between the 2 layers
3) Sandwich it between the two layers & pat the edges with a shaper to tidy the fit up
4) Bake in the oven like you normally would
5) Apply any patina to the silver you like & polish it all up

Finally - relax with a nice cup of tea, glass of wine etc & enjoy your new pendant!
Nic xx

Adding Liver of Sulphur Patina

2009-03-01T09:49:00.012Z

Liver of Sulfur offers us a unique "fix" of instant colour gratification.
It's quick to prepare, simple to use and can really make your work stand out!
Here are some patina options & usage tips, I hope you give them a go and send me pictures of your latest creations...

Types of Patina Solution
To get the variable colour effects described below then you need to use Liver of Sulphur, if you want "straight to black" I recommend Platinol. ;)
Dry chunk-form LOS (Liver of Sulphur).
This is what I use as it seems to give me the best results! My current formula is a pea-sized chunk to a cup of almost-boiling water, (each brand comes with instructions on the packaging).
If you use this type, make sure you keep it absolutely dry & store it in a cool dark place (or it'll be ruined)
I order mine from Whole Lotta Whimsy a lovely family business in the USA :)
Liquid LOS (Liver of Sulphur) Same as LOS above but in liquid form. Available in the UK from Cookson Gold in an amount that will run out of potency before you use it all up!
That's why I get mine from Petra over at silverclay.co.uk (she does small amounts at a lower price point).
"Platinol" Oxidising Solution
This gives a deep black to pale grey finish. It's very good for colouring text on rings and pendants. Also excellent for a long lasting deep black on high contrast pieces.
In the UK it's available from Cookson Gold - product number 998 161A

Using Liver of Sulfur:
1. OPEN THE WINDOWS & ventilate your room = LOS really, really stinks (rotten eggs)
2. Stronger/hotter solutions = faster reactions (not always good if you want purples or specific colours)
3. The longer you leave a piece of silver in, the darker it will get.
4. LOS colours the silver in the following order: Golds, Reds, Purples, Blues then Greens.
It's final colour change is grey then matte black.
5. The best way to stop the LOS reaction is to rinse well in clean, very cold water.
6. If it all goes horribly wrong then re-firing will remove the patina and restore the piece to white.

Directions:
1) Put some gloves on (protects you fingers from the chemicals & the piece from finger oils)
2) Make sure the piece is clean & grease free
3) Warm the piece in hot water (even temperature = more even results).
4) Dip piece briefly in the solution (if the piece has a hole or bail, use some wire as a dipper)
The patina will continue even if you take it out of the solution; the warmer the piece the faster the reaction. The moment you see something that you like rinse it off in the cold water solution!
5) Rinse and repeat until the darkness you want is achieved.
By going slowly you'll have more chance of achieving the colour you want :)

Extra Tip:
Achieving additional depth to your pieces:
1) Get to a colour you like & rinse it off
2) Use the soft brass brush & plain washing up liquid to pull some of the patina off
3) Repeat the process over again. Each time you repeat the colour tones will get deeper and even more gorgeous!!

Here's another useful article from Liver of Sulphur article from Ganoskin (great technical details),

Happy Colouring :)
Nic xx

Making Lavender Paste & repairing fired PMC & art clay silver

2009-02-26T21:15:00.006Z

Updating & Repairing Silver Clay Pieces.
Sometimes I like to revisit an earlier piece or update it for a new look...with unfired clay this is easy (use slip) but when pieces have been fired you need to either:
1) Make a mechanical bond, like drilling a hole and attaching the new piece by squeezing it on (this then forms it's own little rivet when fired).
2) Or attaching the fired pieces with a special type of paste.
There is something called Art Clay Oil Paste which makes a very strong bond for connecting 2 previously fired pieces
It costs about £15 though so I'm going to show you how to make your own version!
Making Lavender Oil Paste
Lavender oil can be added to silver clay paste to make your own oil paste. Gradually add pure lavender oil drops to a thick PMC or ACS paste mixture (15-30 drops). Stir with a plastic spatula or wooden stick until it binds together. Let it sit overnight to assure complete absorption before using. You can make Lavender Oil with PMC plus, PMC3 and all Art Clay products.

Attaching the fired pieces
When you want a strong bond on fired pieces Oil paste is a must!
Here's how I do it:
1) Roughen the surface of the parts where they're to meet (or
put them back in the kiln again for 10 mins) that gives them a rougher texture to adhere to.
2) Attach the 2 pieces with a good gob of paste & for extra "stick" add slip to seal in the edges
3) Let air dry slowly or overnight
4) Try not to wiggle the pieces too much as (until they're fired) the bond still isn't as strong as when you use slip on unfired pieces.

Fire at the hottest temp your clay and inclusions can stand preferably for at least 2 hrs.
(I use 850 degrees)

Extra Info:
Here's a useful article by the PMC guild which shows some strength tests using lavender oil paste.
Art Magazine has a making lavender paste video (you have to join but I think it's free).
http://www.artjewelrymag.com/art/default.aspx?c=a&id=907

Happy Making
Nic xx

Storing Unused PMC & Art Clay Silver Clay

2009-02-25T23:24:00.005Z

Storing Unused Clay
I know that in the early days it seems almost impossible that you'll have any left over clay from those "tiny little packets", but just in case you do here's a few suggestions for keeping your clay from drying out....
NB - If you use different types of clay with different shrinkage or drying rates e.g. Original PMC / PMC+ or ACS650 / ACS650 slow dry it's best to have a seperate labelled container for each

For short term storage -
Use the outer foil pack that your clay came in..
Make sure your clay is moist (if not dampen it) then wrap in cling film before putting back into the ziplock packet.
Wet a piece of kitchen towel & put into packet with the clingfilm wrapped clay.
Ziplock the top shut. (This has kept clay good for days for me & if you keep check the moisture level daily there's no reason it couldn't be longer).

For Regular Storage -
A home made option is to get a small airtight container (little lidded pots)and put a piece of wet sponge in the bottom (dense make up sponge type).
The moist wrapped clay then goes into the pot and you keep the sponge moist.
This way you can have multiple pieces.

Longer Term Storage -
If you want a good pre-made solution or have larger quantities of clay to store regularly then an American site http://www.pmcsupply.com/ has something called Clay Vaults and Clay Keepers. They are "zip lock" plastic containers with hydrated water crystals inside & they're very good.

Nic xx

3 Kiln Comparison

2009-02-24T14:14:00.012Z

There are lots of Kilns on the Market suitable for firing Precious Metal Clay. Here is a rundown on three of the most popular ~ the Kitiki Mini-Kiln, the Paragon SC-Series, and the Ultra-Lite kiln.

The Kitiki Mini-kiln is a good choice where kiln loads are likely to be small, or where space is an issue. It can be used for general low-budget small-scale work such as Art Clay, PMC, dichroic glass, enamelling, and jewellery.
If you are looking to buy a kiln for the first time, the Kitiki Mini-Kiln is a good choice for home, school, craft workshop, jewellery studio, or class. Besides being compact and easy to move, it uses a regular mains socket (no need for expensive re-wiring), it stays cool on the outside, it's controllable, it heats and cools quickly, and it's inexpensive to run.
Important Points
The Mini-Kiln has a Controller, not a Programmer, so there will be some limitations in available firing schedules. e.g. If the target temperature is low, and if the heating rate is set to full, the actual temperature will overshoot before the thermocouple and programmer can regulate it. If the target temperature is high, the overshoot will usually be negligible. While these variations don't affect Art Clay and PMC, they might affect glass, particularly dichroic glass.

The Mini-Kiln has a smaller firing chamber than larger kilns such as the SC2, so you can't stack it full of shelves with loads of pieces of jewellery: just four or five average things on the floor of the firing chamber, on a ceramic-fibre cloth or shelf. (i.e. Not big enough for large Bronze clay containers)

The Mini-Kiln heats to a lower top temperature – the top temperature of the Mini-Kiln is 1000°C, while the top temperature for the SC-2 is 1095°C. (This should not be an issue for PMC, Art Clay, dichroic glass or enamelling).

The Mini-Kiln door opens 90° so, unless the kiln has cooled completely, you should use long tongs in order not to burn your hand taking pieces out. The SC-2 door opens 180°.

Having said that it does have it's benefits too! It's more portable than an SC2 and cheaper too approx prices are currently £300-£350. :)

The Paragon SC series kilns The Paragon SC2 is a good first-kiln, popular with silver clay artists, particularly those also making jewellery with beads, dichroics, enamels, glass, and silver.
It's ideal for a studio running jewellery courses: it's compact and easy to move, it can use a regular mains socket, it stays cool on the outside, it's fully programmable, it heats and cools quickly, and it's inexpensive to run.

The Paragon SC series kilns come in two versions, as the SC-2 and the 50mm taller SC-3. Each version is made in the following four types: Basic, W with viewing window (shown), B with bead-annealing door, and BW with both door and window.
Firing Characteristics
All small, fast-heating, ceramic-fibre kilns, such as those in the SC series, with heating elements in both sides and the back, have firing characteristics you need to be aware of:
The actual temperature can overshoot before the thermocouple and programmer can regulate it: particularly if the heating rate is set to full. Set to a high temperature, the overshoot will usually be negligible.
Work placed at the back of the kiln will be slightly hotter than work at the front. Work near the sides of the kiln will be slightly hotter than work in the middle. If you're using several shelves, work on the top shelf will be slightly cooler.
The glass window in the SC2W, SC2BW, SC3W, and SC3BW, will modify the front-to-back temperature difference slightly. Also, at continual high temperatures, the window glass might discolour: but it's easy and cheap to replace. (You can also use the fibre plug when not enamelling etc to avoid this)

Apart from its internal size, the only minor limitation is that, although 1095°C is hot enough for low-fire ceramics, it's not hot enough for normal ceramics, porcelain, pottery, and stoneware: they need a 1260°C or 1290°C kiln.

My UK version SC-2 kiln has a sheathed thermocouple which helps prevent the possible corrosion, and eventual failure, of the bi-metallic tip: usually caused by pollutants produced whilst heating some types of glass.
The electronic display prompts for heating rate, target temperature, and hold time, making it easy to set up and re-use accurate drying, heating, holding, and cooling sequences.

Approx cost: £500-£600 (dependant on specification)

The UltraLite Kiln, is perfect for drying and firing your PMC, for enamelling, glass fusing, making jewellery, and keum-boo work. Please note that the Ultra Lite is not programmable - it's an 845°C, 250W, low-cost, compact, round kiln, with a lift-off lid

The UltraLite Kiln heats and cools quickly, but costs very little to run. It's ideal for small-scale work in your home, school, craft workshop, or jewellery studio, or at an arts centre running jewellery courses.
The UltraLite Kiln weighs just 1kg, so is easy to take to craft fairs, demonstrations, and exhibitions. If you already have a kiln, you can use an Ultra Lite for drying metal clays, firing single pieces, or quick tests. If you run courses, use several so that more experienced students can optimise their time, rather than wait for the slowest to catch up.

Firing Characteristics
The UltraLite is a small, fast-heating, ceramic-fibre kiln, with one embedded heating element in the bottom. Max temp is about 845°C. Putting the lid off-centre will effectively vent the kiln and reduce the temperature but, unless you use a pyrometer, you won't know what that temperature is.
It's ideal for firing Art Clay and PMC using the firing disc insert, and for keum-boo work using the red brass tops. At 845°C you can't over-fire silver clays as silver doesn't melt until about 962°C. You can work with dichroic glasses, enamels, and fused glass, but will need to experiment.
Keep a firing log: the material you used, the arrangement of pieces on the shelf, the firing cycle, and the end result. The log is useful if you're learning about colour, materials, temperature, and firing time, and a skilled artist will use the firing characteristics to advantage for different effects.

The only minor limitation is that, although 845°C is hot enough for silver metal-clays, it's not hot enough for gold metal-clays, ceramics, porcelain, pottery, and stoneware: they need a 1260°C or 1290°C kiln.

Approx cost: £180-£210 (dependant on specification, e.g. keum-boo plate & lid)

There are lots and lots of kilns out there, these are just a few of them (I have the SC2 with a viewing window) ~ if you have a different model and have found it fabulous and great value then please let us know about it in the comments box! :)

Applying Gold Overlay Paste to Silver Clay

2009-02-24T09:13:00.004Z

Applying Gold Overlay Paste
The best method I've used was to fire the silver then carefully remove the cool silver without touching the area you are adding gold to (finger oils will affect gold adhesion).
Add the gold while the silver is still in it's white stage and then torch fire it on.
Dry naturally, ***do not use a griddle or hotplate to dry
Apply multiple thin coats of gold***must be thin coats***
2 coats will yield a very subtle gold application, 3 or 4 will be much more visable
***must dry in between coats as directed above

When Torch firing Torch evenly until the orange glow is present then time the firing for 3-7 minutes (do not overheat or the gold will be absorbed into the surface of the silver...just a light orange glow...not red). I then Finish & Polish the whole pendant by hand, burnishing the gold areas particularly gently.

Nicxx

Drying Methods for Art Clay Silver & PMC

2009-02-23T17:02:00.003Z

Today I've been asked about drying the pieces you've made before firing.
So here are some things you can do to dry your silverclay.

Air Drying ~ The easiest way to dry pieces is leave them in a warm room for 24 hours and voila all finished! (Slow air drying is also best for Bronze & Gold clays and repairs filled with paste).
Mug Warmer/Hotplate ~ For those of us in a rush, or teaching a class, then a mug warmer or other form of hotplate is great too (AGA & Range oven owners will be grinning now). With these you'll need to keep an eye on the pieces and turn them over every now and again so they dry evenly (or the piece can warp/curl).
Hairdryer ~ Haven't got a hotplate? Then a hairdryer will speed up the drying process, just be carefull not to blow your freshly made piece accross the room! To avoid this put the piece on a mesh and then dry with the hairdryer. (Great for drying syringe work)
Food Dehydrator ~ If you've cash to splash a food dehydrator will dry lots of pieces quickly, probably best that you then don't use it for preparing your home made muesli in!
Oven Drying ~ If you're making lots of pieces then you can oven dry them approx 20mins at 200 degress should do the trick! (I dry them on a clay tile)

Nic xx

Carving Text onto PMC & Silver Clay

2009-02-22T18:07:00.006Z

Adding Handwritten Text into Silver Clay pieces
The easiest way is using a sharp solid point (like the end of a burnishing tool).
You need to wait until the clay is dry (or it kicks up messy edges). Sand & prep the area where the name will go then write your lettering using a soft pencil.
Lightly scrape the name onto the clay, support the work well as you do this (so you don't break it). Repeatedly scrape over the same lines building up depth. You'll find a kiddies paintbrush helps remove the dust, which you can keep for making slip. Fire the piece and polish it as normal.

Tip: To make the text stand out even more, apply a liver of sulphur patina and then re-polish the piece.

Making a Photographic Background

2009-02-22T11:07:00.009Z

I thought this quick explanation of how to make your own graduated background in Photoshop (or similar) might come in useful. :)
It'll save you £££'s against buying one!

You need:
1 x Sheet of Matt Photographic paper (ideally A4)
1 x Ink-jet or Laser-jet printer
1 x Photo programme (e.g. Photoshop)

Instructions:1) Set your paper size to A4 (210 × 297 mm)
2) Use the Colour selector to select the Colours you'd like your gradient to be (e.g. Black & White)
3) Select the gradient tool (on photoshop it's behind the paint bucket tool)
4) Fill a selection by clicking and dragging the pointer across the canvas or selection. The larger the drag the more gradual the gradient will be. All of the control of the tool lies in the dragging of the pointer. Pressing and holding the shift key will create perfectly aligned gradients.
Have a play with whatever programme you're using their are normally a few options for different gradient styles.....
When you're happy print it out onto the photo paper and voilà you have your own professional looking photo background! Here's an example of something I took using mine (I selected the darker area of the gradient but by using an A4 sheet you can also select a lighter gradient)

My pics aren't up to studio standard but with the help of a cheapo ebay light tent and some good lighting you can get some great results....

As a comparison here's the same jewellery item on a white background and a graduated background

Nic xxx

Hob Firing PMC and Art Clay Silver

2009-02-21T23:45:00.000Z

FIRING on a GAS HOB
Ideally, SilverClay needs firing for a set time at a set temperature.
However, with practice, you can fire small pieces on a kitchen gas hob. This is best for pieces no bigger than a 50p piece and if you dont have a gas hob you could try a portable camping stove.

Lay the mesh on the hob and light the gas. As it heats up you'll notice cherry red areas these will be heating between 650-800 degrees (suitable for silver clay). Turn the gas off and, after the mesh has cooled, lay your dried clay on one of the red spots. Cover the piece with a mesh "box" for firing safety and relight the gas.

Fire your piece for 6-10 minutes, making sure that it's still in a red spot. Let it cool before you touch it, or the mesh. N.B If you don't get any red spots then your hobs flame may be too far from the mesh & the metal wont be strong enough if you try to fire this way... If you have a camping stove try that :)

Happy Heating x

Torch Firing PMC & Art Clay Silver

2009-02-21T00:08:00.003Z

Torch Firing Process
(With thanks to Tim McCreight & his article in Studio PMC)
Allow the work to dry overnight or drive off moisture with a hairdryer, or in a slow oven. Make sure it's completely dry or the work can explode! Torch firing is not recommended for large items and you need good ventilation as you'll be close to the clay when the binder is burning off.
2. Place the work on a soldering block or fire brick, which is in turn set on either a fireproof surface or something you don’t mind being singed (like a piece of plywood). If you are working on the kitchen counter and the piece rolls off the block you don’t want to scar the countertop.
3. Light the torch and hold it so the flame is nearly vertical with the tip of the cone about 3/4" away from the work. Within a minute, the piece will be enveloped in a soft flame as the binder burns away. The flame will soon go out by itself. Within another minute, the piece will start to glow red. Continue heating until this becomes a bright and luminous color. At this point, glance at a clock.
4. Hold this color as uniformly as possible for about 5-7minutes. When the time is up, turn off the torch and allow the piece to cool. If you're not sure it's fully cooled use tongs or tweezers to pick it up and (providing it's not stone set) quench it in water.

A suggestion - Melt some Silverclay on Purpose
Most standard handheld torches are rated at 2000F so they can melt silver clay, in an effort to avoid this it's worth doing this experiment so you know what to look for.

Pull off a pea-sized bit of your chosen silver clay (PMC or ACS), split it in half, and roll out two small rods. Follow the instructions above with one added step. Concentrate the flame on one of the rods in an effort to melt it. You’ll see a bright mercury-like skin form on the piece and the red color will become even brighter. The edges will start to curl and the metal will be drawn up into a ball.
Make a mental note of what you saw. This way you’ll know the signs of melting, and you can withdraw the torch in time before damaging a piece you care about. To complete the experiment, allow the other rod to cool and test it by bending, filing, burnishing, and polishing. This will confirm that, sure enough, torch firing really works!

PMC Tool List

2009-02-20T10:24:00.000Z

I've been asked a few questions on PMC mainly during my courses, so I thought I'd start a Blog to put lots of useful advice all in one place :)

PMC Suggested TOOLS - minimum needs, in order of use
A roller - used for rolling out the clay
A rolling surface - Non-stick as possible e.g. a glass board or polished tile
Spacers or playing cards - for getting the depth of the clay even
Cutting blade, scalpel - For getting straight edges and making your shapes.
A small lidded pot - to put filings & tiny offcuts into so you can save them for making silver clay paste or slip
Various grades of sanding pads - or get a 4 way nail filing block and strip the sides off.

FIRING METHODS -
For Hob firing, stainless steel mesh with protection net.
Torch firing - Handheld torch and a firing brick (asbestos substitute not a household brick )
Kiln - If you can get access to a kiln then use it, the metal is normally denser and the results more consistant.
Stainless steel or brass brush - for brushing off the white post firing and leaving you lovely silver.
Silver polish & Cloth - for getting the final buffed up shine.

Some Optional Extras:
For ring making - A sliding ring guage, A wooden ring mandrel, and ring papers (to stop clay sticking to the mandrel).
For Better finishes - A small set of metal files for neatening edges quicker than sanding them down.
Long Tweezers - For holding / moving the pieces when firing
Liver of Sulpher - For antiquing or bringing out fine detail
Burnishers & ultra fine sanding pads - Post firing for a REAL shine!
Cutters & Shapers - Using pre-shaped cutters e.g. hearts will same time and give you more consistant shapes
Tiny drill bits - you can twist them in your fingers to drill through the unfired clay & make jump ring holes & hanging points.
Texture Mats/plates - Roll the clay out on these and you'll have fabulous patterns straight away!
Letter Stamp Set - For stamping words into unfired (rubber stamps) or fired clay (metal stamps).

Feel free to add any suggestions & comments (I'll add them to the list)

Nic xx