Art Clay Copper - Cutting, Ring Making & Finishing

Art Clay Copper cuts beautifully and doesn't stick to cutters. It's less sticky than the previous Bronze and Copper clays which combined with the easy texturing and quick firing makes it an ideal prospect for classes.For this testing process I've made five rings on sized mandrels. 12,11,10,10-,9
The clay stuck together well with an angled cut and water join but to be extra sure I gave it a smoosh (technical term there, lol) with the texture plate. This applied extra pressure to seal the join and helped disguise where it was.Hopefully if ACC becomes popular Aida will bring out an Art Clay Copper Syringe type.
When measured after drying the rings are about 1/2 size bigger (I use paper wraps) measuring
12.25,11.5,10.5,11,9.5
I shall measure them again after firing.
These some of the pieces made from a 50g pack. The pieces used a mix of the blue slats from Rio, 4 cards thick and the red, 6 cards thick slats.

Once dry I sanded and baby wiped the edges of the pieces. Art Clay Copper sands relatively easily & I found it less "dusty" in comparison to bronze clay. I made sure I wore a mask though as breathing in metal isn't clever!
Nicx

Art Clay Copper - First Experiences!

Set everything up...1) Tools texture mats, board etc all clean, no silver clay to contaminate the copper clay
2) Cling Film and zip lock bag ready (to store clay while I'm using the bit I need)
3) Water to moisten and Baby Wipes
(Turns out you use LOTS of baby wipes as the stuffs messy)
4) Gloves in a bottle or barrier cream. (Just in case as you might be sensitive to copper and it likes to really coat your hands)
First ImpressionsIt's Orange!! A real orangutan, cuddles the monkey orange! (The picture above doesn't show quite how orange it is, but for someone who prefers the silver metals it's a bit of a shock!)
Straight out of the packet it splits at the edge when squished. I decided this meant it needed conditioning. So I flattened it, smeared a little water on and worked it in (much better).
Be careful when adding water as it goes into the sticky smooshy stage very quickly.
Using the Clay Once ConditionedArt Clay Copper is fabulous to roll and (once conditioned) not at all sticky. It also doesn't seem to dry as fast as silver clay does. I had plenty of time to roll the clay out with not a cracking edge in sight.

It also takes texture very well. I used cool slip on the texture mat and wiped off any excess prior to impressing the texture (the Orange on this pic is closer to true colour - did I mention how Orange it is yet? lol).
I moistened and worked any clay I wasn't using, wrapped it in cling film and put it in the zip lock bag.
Nic x
P.S More to follow ~ cutting, making rings and firing ACC pics soon ;)

Soldering on Enamel & Silver Jewellery

 

Here's the front of a brooch I made & enamelled for my mum's Christmas present. All I have to do next is make and attach the brooch finding for her. Thankfully I attended a course at MidCornwall Jewellery school where under the superb tuition of Linda Darty, Lisa Cain demo'd exactly how to do it! (well we learnt on earring studs but the techniques the same).
 

The main secret to successful soldering of components onto enamel is to use a high melting point solder e.g. Hard Solder. This is because you need the enamel to flow on the opposite side (which avoids heat stressing the enamel and cracking it). Think of it like torch firing the enamel, with the added benefit of soldering something to the back.

N.B. It's important that you don't get direct flame onto the enamel areas at it will blacken the glass and ruin your piece!!!
1) Prep the area to be soldered by burnishing and cleaning.
2) Clean Solder and cut pallions ready (use more than usual as metal clay is porous so tends to soak it up)

3) Use borax or other flux on area to be soldered and solder (I used Auflux)

4) HEAT up the silver until the solder flows make sure everything is heated evenly and the metal is all red.

5) Move your findings quickly into position, remove the flame, continuing to hold them in position until the metal cools and the solder is hard (a second or so). 6) Let the silver cool down naturally & if using leaded enamels don't pickle or keep a very close eye on it.

7) If making a brooch then form the pins etc. You can find instructions for making your own brooch findings on my Murano Silver Blog.

Above is a picture of the brooch before it's final clean up - I used rubber wheels and polishing buffs as I didn't want to pickle the enamel. For those that haven't the pleasure of a class with Linda Darty ~ if you can GO on one (she really is amazing) at the very least buy her book

"The Art of Enamelling"
Nicxx
P.S. mum loved it ;-)

And the Winner is....Joy Funnell

This is a picture of hubby picking out the winning ticket in my "Robert Dancik - Amulets and Talismans" book giveaway. He even did the paper opening (he said it made him feel like the draw master on the lottery).
Congratulations Joy Funnell you're the lucky winner - email me your address & enjoy your early Christmas gift!
Nic xx

Amulets and Talismans - Dancik Signed Book Giveaway

Great artists are often great story tellers and the idea of adding a story to your everyday adornment soon had me ordering an Advance copy of the Amulets and Talismans book from Amazon. I was so pleased with the book that when I next bumped into Robert (at a recent course at Mid Cornwall Jewellery School) I got an extra copy just for you to have a chance of winning :)

Robert Dancik shows how you can make your jewellery more meaningful and more personal. He says "it is the idea that steers the work, not the fascination with a material or showing off a technique." Handily Dancik adds a comprehensive section showing you how to use the tools needed for the projects. He writes in excellent easy to understand detail. (You can tell this guy has years of experience and is a great teacher, below is Robert in full flow at a recent symposium)

Getting the book isn't quite as good as face to face demo, but it's not a great start!

Faux Bone and PMC pieces, is a wonderfully versatile material. Alternatively you could substitute polymer clay but my suggestion is to try the Faux Bone (Robert also created a using Faux Bone DVD which add extra techniques to this book)

"Amulets and Talismans" ProjectsThe books 20 projects include:
Karma Bracelet (Charm bracelet)
Minkisi (Beaded tea infuser necklace)
Abracadabracus (Beaded abacus necklace)
Prayer Holder Bracelet (Pvc pipe inro bracelet)
Bound Heart Pendant (Wire-wrapped Faux Bone pendant)
Rune Necklace (Inlaid polymer clay beads carved with symbols)
Protection for the Traveller (Copper sheet pendant with Faux Bone accents)
Laibon Ax Pendant (Wire and Faux Bone necklace)
The Protective Eye (Polymer clay transfer on sheet metal background)
Story Bracelet (Faux Bone charm bracelet)
Medal for Unknown Good Deed (Tin can medal on Faux Bone background)
Finding your Way (Compass and wire necklace)
Split Rock Power Object (Paper pulp mache and resin pendant)
U + Eye (Bottle cap and resin pendant)
Power is Safe in the Void (Jar lid and concrete pendant)
Magnifying Your Path (Jar lid, polymer clay and magnifying glass pendant)
Never Far (Copper sheet pendant)
Closure for a Memory (Mica, sheet metal, and photo pendant)
Looking Back Bead (Plexiglas with Faux Bone topper)
Seeing Through (Pendant with a copper sheet box and concrete)

You can guarantee that you'll be inspired enough to try your own projects too. So get collecting those ticket stubs, bottle caps and beach treasure......and enter to win your own copy!

Here's how you win a signed copy of the book!Leave a comment below - one entry
Blog or Twitter about the prize - one entry for each :)
Be a fan of the blog or facebook - one entry
You need to make a comment for each entry - makes it easier to cut my pieces of paper up and put them in a hat ;)

Good LuckNic x

p.s. Entry closes November 30th

Murano Silver in Print!!

After being named Silver Clay, Jewellery Maker of the Year by Beads and Beyond Magazine. I found I'm going to be included in TWO internationally published Metal Clay Calenders!!!
The first to tell me the good news was Marjorie Oxman who has published the "2010 Metal Clay Jewelry Calendar". Marjorie Oxman has done such a fantastic job creating this beautiful calendar which you can see below. (If you click the arrows you'll see my "Dali inspired" piece on page 11)

Excitingly I've also been included in Holly Guages "The Art and Design of Metal Clay Jewellery" - Hollys calenders have been gracing my wall for the past two years. It's so exciting to see what international artists have been producing and such a honour to be included amongst them!
Click the link to see more of "The Art and Design of Metal Clay Jewelry Calender". The images Holly uses are stunning! Mines the colourful triangular one, entitled "Thoth", which I think will be August :)
Sooooo so happy.
I've got to go and buy plenty of Calenders now, mum and the family have put their orders in already ;)
Nic x

Blistering Metal Clay....

Here's a question I was asked recently:

"I'm soldering jump rings on to my fired pmc pendants and I'm having real trouble with the surface of the pmc popping and making bubbles as I'm heating the solder. It was fine when I fired the pmc so I can't understand why it's happening now, any one got any ideas?? It takes so long to make each pendant and they're being ruined at the last stage Thanks!"


Thankfully it's now sorted out and here's the solution for you! :)

The problem turned out to be quenching the fired PMC pieces prior to soldering.
Fired metal clay that has been washed, or wet in any way, can keep humidity for a very long time inside its pores. This is especially true of quenching which seems to force the water into the metal.. If that's the case then the fast heat up with a torch is the problem the moisture is trying to force it's way out.
Try going over your silver clay on it's own and heating it with a more gentle heat to drive out moisture then when soldering try and heat the whole area to even the heat distribution before a final quick focus on the jump ring.
Either that or you'd need to use easy paste solder and be very very quick with a fine flame (so the Metal Clay doesn't get heated)
Hope that helps

Nic x